Monday, May 24, 2010

CHICAMA—Longest wave in the World

CHICAMA—Longest wave in the World
Spent 4 nights at this classic left hand point break and surfed every day. So I was lucky because it can go flat. It was 3-4 feet the first 2 days then peaked at solid 6 feet for one day then back to 3-4 for the rest. The bigger day caught me inside and I couldn’t get out of the whitewater for 1000m down the point. The rip is the big issue here and some people pay US$40 a day for a boat. But the guys I was hanging with were poor or pure souls who didn’t agree with that. I had lead for arms after each session just trying to stay in position to catch something before the rip spat me out in front of town.
Did have some issues with the runs and a head cold so that didn’t help matters. Food in small towns in Peru is very poor. They just don’t have good ingredients, but they do have big smiles.
The last 2 days were very cold with a fog almost in. The cold current here has a huge effect on the weather and you definitely would be better off with a full wetsuit and booties for the constant walk backs to the take off point. It really was a treat to visit such a world famous spot and find the hype matched the truth. But next time I’ll use the boat